1. Magic is a Real Thing
2. Kakuli, The White Buffalo
3. A Midnight Maestro
4. This Land of Dreams
5. The Big Picture

Kakuli, The White Buffalo

I arrived at Chindeni yesterday afternoon from Kuyenda, another of Andy’s camps. In fact Kuyenda is responsible for setting the scene for my current mood. The camp is managed by a couple named Phil and Babette and if ever a place could take on the character of those that live there, Kuyenda is the place.

Phil Berry has been involved in the Luangwa Valley since 1962. First as a wildlife ranger protecting the sanctuary and now has the distinction of being one of the most experienced Africa men today.

I cannot help but describe Phil as someone you read about in Wilbur Smith novels. He is worthy of the dignity that he carries with him. His lifetime experiences are almost as heroic as the dedication and love that he bears for the bush. Totally committed to the well being of the nature he has spent his life protecting and preserving it. Phil sets an example to us all. If there is magic here, part of it is Phil’s weaving.

Kuyenda camp really is the most authentic bush camp I have yet to visit. It is luxuriously simple. Comfortable and welcoming it has all the taste and atmosphere of old Africa. Such a refreshing change to have the standards necessary but at the same time no drama, no frills and no pretence.
The four reed and thatch chalets are cozy, secure and tastefully blended into the surrounding bush. So well blended that I did not even know I had arrived until Phil was shaking my hand and welcoming me into his world.

The dining area peeps across a grassland vista that when the wind blows, ripples with golden waves reach the banks of the Manzi River. This sand river is perennial and must be spectacular to see when the first flood of the rains wash along it’s course.
The cuisine was superb and how they managed to supply ice in my gin and tonic I will never know. Sitting around the fire with Phil and Babette can only be described as charming.

With firelight dancing shadows across the rustic chalets and Phil recounting stories from the past of man eating lions, the days of the black rhino and ancient elephants bearing 200lb of ivory, one could not help but relax into the enchantment that is Kuyenda.
Time stands still here and the feeling of eternal Africa so strong could have put me around this fire anytime over the last century.


The main idea of the Bushcamp Company is to enable guests to experience Africa on foot and the company slogan is “from a vehicle you can see Africa, on foot you can hear, feel and taste Africa”. Couldn't be closer to the truth!

My first walking safari ever turned out to be one of the highlights of my life and Phil even commented that it had been one of his best for a while. Its an early wake up call in the bush as the animals wait for no man, so after a light breakfast Phil led us out into wild Africa. I will always remember the feeling as I strolled behind Phil. The grass still glistened with early morning dew and the light was surreal, setting the scene for my sense of anticipation.


Within ten minutes of the safari we came across a herd of buffalo, Phil guessed at about 350 strong. This, of course was spectacular to see but standing in the forefront of this throng was a huge old male.
Regal at the best of times Kakulis (means “old man” in the vernacular) are very impressive but this one even more so as he had a completely white face. Phil has, of course, seen this fellow before, but never standing individually and never posing for the safari as he did that day.

Local lore states that a phenomenon of this kind brings good luck to those that see it and it certainly seems to be true as the next two hours unveiled a pride of fifteen lion, including two big males one of which sported a full black mane. This is not unusual around Kuyenda but these lions had chosen a most convenient location to sprawl around. They were relaxing contentedly within a wide ravine and following behind Phil we were able to top the rise and watch quietly from less than 30 m. The lions never even knew we were there.

The thrill of being so close to these magnificent animals made bunji-jumping pale into insignificance. I really believe if everyone could see this, human race would be humbled. Phil introduced us to so many things I have never even considered could be part of a safari experience, how naive I have been in the past with my concept of Africa.

Old white face spent the day in sight of the camp and his luck charm carried over to our night drive. Less than two km from the camp and before the sun had completed its downward spiral our safari came across a male leopard stalking a puku. We watched for nearly 40 minutes as he slowly stalked his unsuspecting prey and I do not think anyone can ever understand the depth of skill and patience a leopard must have if it is to survive. It really was an anxious time for me, torn between the desire to see him succeed and horror at the fate of the poor puku. I was incredibly relieved and equally disappointed when the wind changed. The puku got a nose full of leopard and dashed away to the relative safety of the dark. Phil told me that Leopards are only successful in 30% of hunts so we could at least be consoled in the fact that he would hunt again and would not go hungry for long.

[continued...A Midnight Maestro]